For many years, Quito was just a place to overnight on the way to or from The Galapagos. This is a shame, as Ecuador's capital has a great deal to offer sophisticated travelers. Furthermore, Quito has undergone a massive investment in the last 10 years, including a new cable car, highways, a brand new airport, new museums, a renovated colonial district, and more.

Quito's history goes back over a thousand years. In the 15th century, Quito became the Northern capital of the Inca empire. When the Spanish arrived in 1534, the city became a regional power center, and in 1830, the city became the capital of the newly independent Ecuador. Quito has an unusual location, built on the side of a mountain, at an altitude of over 9,000 ft over sea level. There is a valley to the East of the city (where the new airport is located), and a high mountain to the West of it, higher than 12-13,000 ft over sea level . For travelers, Quito is roughly divided in two parts: the old town/colonial city, and the 'new town'/modern metropolis.

My favorite part of Quito is the old colonial sector, which was declared UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978. In fact, Quito was the 1st city in the world to earn this designation, and it has helped greatly to provide the funding to restore old buildings and bring to life centuries of history. There is much to see and do in Quito, so here are some highlights:

Colonial sector: There are many squares, but the most beautiful are the Plaza San Francisco (facing the church of the same name, which I will get to in a minute), Plaza Grande / Plaza de la Independencia, and finally Plaza Santo Domingo. Of the 3, Plaza San Francisco is the most historic, as it was the ancient site of a large Inca market. Plaza Grande was Quito's center of power - home of the Presidential Palace, Cathedral, and Archbishop's palace, all facing the square's central statue. There are over 30 churches in this area. My 3 recommendations are: Basilica del Voto Nacional, finished about 100 years ago in an Ecuadorian, neo Gothic style, is worth seeing for the stained glass windows and the super views of Quito from various rooftop and tower viewpoints (many stairs, some spiral, not for anyone with vertigo). My second recommendation is the Church of San Francisco, with a stunning interior and a vast complex of courtyards attached to the main church building, the most notable housing a terrific museum of colonial art. Finally, The Jesuit church of La Compania, the most amazing of them all. La Compania was built to blow the faithful away when it was finished in 1765, and I have to tell you, it still makes a big impression. This is Quito's Sistine Chapel, done in a baroque guilded style that is over the top. Tip: If you make prior arrangements with Metropolitan Touring (Signature's DS in Ecuador and the company I am traveling with) and get lucky, you cn get gain access to the rooftop of La Compania, an unforgettable experience. Seeing the gilded altar and ceiling sculptures from the top of the dome looking down is something I will never forget, not to mention super views of Quito.

What else? If you have sunny weather and can handle heights, take the fairly new cable car (TeleferiQo), which will whisk you from 9200 to well over 12,000 ft over sea level in 10 minutes. The views from the top are breathtaking (in more ways than one), including seeing Cayambe, Cotopaxi, and other snow capped volcanoes in the distance, and Quito's metropolitan area spread out below you like a blanket. If you want more adventures, spend some time hiking on various trails that can take you as high as 14,000 ft over sea level. If you do, travel with a guide who knows the trails well. Finally, no visit to Quito is complete without having your picture taken at the Mitad del Mundo (the middle of the world), the Equatorial monument that marks where the Equator passes. In fact, the Equator actually passes a few yards away from the monument, but - the monument is where the line is drawn on the ground and where everyone goes to have a photo with one foot on each hemisphere. Hokey yes, fun, absolutely.

Things to consider:

• Quito is over 9,000 ft high, so pace yourself and plan accordingly. Drink plenty of water, even when you are not thirsty. Try to have your main big meal for lunch, and a light supper.
• The sun is incredibly bright, as you are at the Equator. Sunscreen and hat are musts. Bring it from the US as good quality sunscreen is expensive in Quito. You will be surprised how fast you cook on a sunny day.
• Dress for 4 seasons every day. The weather is unpredictable, so although you may be hot in a sunny square, it could cloud up and rain in less than an hour. The best thing to do is to have layers, and a small umbrella - just in case. If you go up on the cable car, you need a sweater/polartec jacket as it is much windier and colder than in Quito proper.