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Turkey is a rapidly modernizing country with one foot in Europe and one in the Middle East. It has oriental splendour, mystery, intrigue and whirling dervishes, and it also has a spicy past up against a pacy present. They have an unrivalled reputation for hospitality, the cuisine is to die for, the coastline is dreamy, and many Turkish cities are dotted with spectacular mosques and castles. And while costs are rising, Turkey remains the Mediterranean's bargain-basement destination. There's an enormous variety of things to see and do ranging from water sports to mountain trekking, archaeology to night-clubbing and river rafting to raki drinking.