For years, Marseile had a terrible reputation: there was crime and drug traffiking, and there was not much to offer sophisticated travelers. In recent years, that has all changed, and in 2013 Marseille became the European Capital of Culture. Taking advantage of this year-long culture fest, the regional and European government poured millions into the city, and Marseille has been transformed into a must-see gem on the Mediterranean.

What to see and do in Marseille? Here are a few recommendations:

• Start in the Vieux Port area, the ancient port that has been one of France's main outlets to the world for centuries. Explore the old neighborhoods, and have a drink or a meal facing the harbor.
• Visit one of the many cultural institutions in the city. High on my list are: The new MUCEM (museum of Mediterranean civilizations, housed in a ultramodern and beautiful building surrounded by the sea on three sides. Tip - enter the museum from on high, through the old Fort St Jean , so you can walk across the steel ramps that connect the ramparts and the museum's rooftop; The old hospice of La Vielle Charite, now transformed into a cultural center housing 3 museums; and the Musee Cantini, right in city center, with a great post-impressionist art collection.
• Take Le Petit Train Bleu (little Blue train) to the top of Notre Dame de la Gare. I know this is touristy - but - the train is open air, and you have the best views of Marseille going up the mountain, and back down via a different route. Notre Dame is a unique basilica done in an Oriental style, complete with miniature boats hanging from the ceiling (to thank the virgin for saving the sailors on a particular ship), and paintings of ships on the walls from grateful seamen. Most of all, you visit Notre Dame for the sensational views of Marseille and the sea.
• Day trips - Marseille is a hub for Southern Provence, so you can easily do day trips to Cassis, Aix en Provence (20 minutes by train), or my recommended outing - visiting the Calanques, a National Park with fantastic limestone cliffs and crystal clear waters, East of Marseille.
• Dining: Marseille invented the Bouillabaisse and a number of other dishes. My favorite restaurant in the Vieux Port is Paule & Kopa (42 Place des Huiles).
• Shopping: No visit to Marseille is complete without buying the famous Savon de Marseille (Marseille soap) made from olive oil. Buy it at La Licorne or Compagnie de Provence

Where to stay? By far, the best choice is the Intercontinental Marseille - Hotel Dieu. This is Marseille's premier address, in the old city, walking distance to the Vieux Port, MUCEM, Blue Train, restaurants, etc. The hotel sits on a hill, so many of the rooms have superb views of the port and Notre Dame church in the distance.

The hotel is a national landmark and was originally a hospital, going back over eight centuries. The exterior you see today is mostly from the 18th century, when the building was renovated and improved in a grand style. In the 1970s and 1980s the Hotel Dieu fell into disrepair and was in terrible shape. Intercontinental bought the property from the city for 1 euro, with the promise that it would renovate it and improve it. The developer invested over 100 million dollars, and what you see today is a miracle, delivered by a very talented team of laborers. The renovation took forever, because as the work began on the foundation, ancient Roman mosaics were discovered, revealing that the present site was originally a public bath house.

You now enter the hotel by checking into the property's new modern lobby, filled with light. You go up to your room, on floors 2 to 7. The 194 Rooms are spacious, and start at over 300 sq feet, going up to well over 1,000 sq ft for the Presidential suite. My favorite rooms were the rooms with views of the Vieux Port in floors 3, 5 and 7, which have big terraces with super views of Marseille. These are the best rooms, as the terraces are enormous and have space for chaise lounges, table, and two chairs. The views are fantastic, all through the day and night. Junior suites are also a very good buy, I thought. Bathrooms are spacious and thoughtful, with separate bath and shower and many have windows with natural light.

The hotel's dining is one of its 'fortes', as the property now features Lionel Levy, a famous Marseillais chef who closed his acclaimed restaurant to set up shop at the Intercontinental. There is a main restaurant featuring all day dining, and a gourmet restaurant called L'Alcyone, that is one of the most sought after tables in the city. I had dinner in the main restaurant on Thanksgiving day, and Mr. Levy blew me away with a proper thanksgiving menu as an option, complete with Pumpkin soup, turkey, and pecan pie. I have to say, I was impressed.