Cotopaxi region & Hacienda San Agustin de Callo

Ecuador has over 50 volcanoes, six of them considered active. One of the most beautiful is Cotopaxi, which is nearly 20,000 ft high. Cotopaxi National Park has been greatly improved in recent years, and is one of Ecuador's top destinations. Most visitors drive all the way up to the park's highest lookout accessible by car , which is about 12,000 ft over sea level and has magnificent views of the summit (if the day is clear and the volcano is not covered by clouds) and the valleys below. From here, you can hike up to the visitors' center and a small refuge, which is at 16,000 ft over sea level. This is also where mountain climbers spend the night before attempting the summit. The snow line starts at this point, and there are many trails that go as high as you want to go. Needless to say, the hiking is difficult due to the altitude, but the views are breathtaking - in more ways than one. I was able to make it as high as 17,000, where a glacier starts to form and there is a beautiful ice cave one can walk into. Because the sun is so bright and the light bounces off the snow, good sunglasses are a must.

If you wish to overnight in this region, the most special place to stay is Hacienda San Agustin de Callo. This is a small hacienda, long on charm and a sense of place. The hacienda's main building was built around the remains of an old Inca palace, built over 500 years ago. After the fall of the Inca empire, the estate was taken over by Augustinian monks, who ran the property for centuries, and welcomed guests traveling to/from the Southern part of the country.

The hacienda is laid out in a series of courtyards and stand alone buildings, leading to the main courtyard, which is the heart of the property. The dining room, facing the main courtyard and the hacienda's most famous room, is completely surrounded by perfectly set Inca stones, and it is a very special place to have a meal. The menu is limited, but the kitchen staff does a fantastic job with locally sourced ingredients. Do not miss the locro (Ecuador's soup dish) and the trout, both excellent. The hotel is owned and managed by Mrs. Mignon Plaza, whose family bought the estate many years ago. When you stay here, you are personal guest of Mrs Plaza, who welcomes every guest, as she lives on property.

The hacienda only has 11 rooms, each of them unique. My favorite rooms were the 8 rooms in the main / older section of the hacienda, each with its own name. Rooms have fireplaces, including the bathrooms, adding to the charm. Each room is decorated individually with books, furniture, and paintings bought by the owner years ago. The hacienda has a large living room, where guests congregate in the evening to have a drink at the honor bar, and meet each other. The mix of guests is about 50% American, 30+% European, and the rest Ecuadorian and international. During my stay, I met a group of American mountain climbers who had just summited Cotopaxi. Dining is a communal affair, s everyone has dinner in the main dining room. You can also have dinner served in your room, upon request. In recent years, the hacienda has added a stand alone villa with 3 bedrooms, and 2 more modern suites in a separate building. The hacienda offers horseback riding and hikes. The hacienda is less than 2 hours S of Quito on an excellent highway, except for the last 20 minutes which are on bumpy gravel and dirt roads. For clients seeking warm hospitality and a very authentic and unique experience during their visit to Ecuador, Hacienda San Agustin de Callo will not disappoint. Photos will be posted shortly.