Santa Cruz Island: Although the 'official' capital of the Galapagos Island province is Puerto Baquerizo, the commercial and transportation hub for the Galapagos islands is Santa Cruz, and its largest town, Puerto Ayora. Most flights to the Galapagos land in Baltra, a small island North of Santa Cruz that you reach by motorboat/ferry from Santa Cruz, and many Galapagos cruises leave from Puerto Ayora, so chances are, at some point or other, you will pass through this island.

Arriving and departing: Getting to Puerto Ayora from Ecuador is almost an all day affair. You fly to Baltra airport from either Quito (UIO) or Guayaquil (GYE), via LAN Ecuador, TAME, or Aerogal. (Of the 3 airlines, LAN is the most reliable and dependable). On arrival to Galapagos, you have to have your passport stamped, even though Galapagos is to Ecuador what Hawaii is to the USA. Because the Galapagos is a National Park, there are strict controls on what comes in (no fruits of any kind allowed in), and there is a thorough check as you arrive and claim your luggage. From baggage claim, you will either have a group or private transfer (30 minutes or so) to the boat landing on the Southern end of Baltra. You then board a small boat/ferry that will cross you to Santa Cruz island (5 minutes tops), then disembark and board your group or private transfer. The excercise is a little chaotic and you have to keep an eye on your suitcase, to ensure it goes with you and your boat, as there are multiple boats going across. After that, you have a 40 minute drive to Puerto Ayora. From there, you will transfer to your hotel or cruise. Tip: buy a bottle of water once you go through security in GYE or UIO airports, as there is no where to buy water until you get to Puerto Ayora and the sun is intense.

Santa Cruz : If you decide to spend a few days on the island, here are a few recommendations:

• To see the giant tortoises, visit the Charles Darwin Research Center (open daily at 7am, 15 minute walk from downtown Puerto Ayora, get there early or late in the afternoon to avoid groups from the ships). To see the tortoises in their natural habitat in the forest, visit El Chato tortoise farm.
• The 2 best beaches are Tortuga Bay outside Puerto Ayora (a 45 minute walk each way from the guard's post at the entrance, but well worth it - bring water and a good hat, as there is no shade), and Garrapatero Beach (30 min drive from Puerto Ayora by taxi, then 5-10 minute walk to the beach. If you go by taxi, arrange a time for the driver to come and pick you up).
• Some of the best bird watching is at Dos Gemelos, two giant volcanic craters about 100 ft deep, 30 minutes drive from Puerto Ayora.
• An interesting spot to swim in is Las Grietas, a fissure in the lava formations outside of Puerto Ayora.

Where to stay? Here are 3 options:

In Puerto Ayora, the best bet is the Finch Bay Eco Hotel. This property, owned by Metropolitan Touring's parent firm, has won awards for service and environmental responsibility. The property is reached via a 5 minute boat ride from the main pier, followed by a 10 minute walk down a path to the resort. The property has 21 spacious garden view rooms, and 6 new Ocean View rooms with terraces. My favorite room was OV6 - at the far end of the property, with privacy, light, and views of the sea. Food and service are highlights at this property, as is the convenience of having a small beach in front of the hotel, and being close to Puerto Ayora's shops, restaurants, sightseeing.

About 30 minutes' drive from Puerto Ayora is Galapagos Safari Camp (Signature hotel), located on a vast, 55 hectare farm on high ground. This is a world away from the hustle and bustle of Puerto Ayora. You come here to be at one with nature, the way you would in a tented camp in Africa. The property has a main building, which has reception, living room, and indoor/outdoor dining. From here, you walk down paths to 9 tents, complete with bathroom and shower. The property also offers a family suite, with 3 bedrooms, which is very popular. There is a small pool, and a super terrace at the highest point, the best place to watch the sunset. The property can arrange personalized itineraries in and out of Santa Cruz, beach picnics, day trips to other islands, and more.

On the horizon is Pikaia Lodge, a new SLH property that will have its soft opening on 7APR and a full opening on 29SEP. This is a super-luxe resort with 12 rooms and 2 suites, done in an ultra-modern style. The property is on a hill, about 20 minutes from Puerto Ayora, and will have its own boat for day trips, the MY Pikaia. This will be, without a doubt, the most luxurious place to stay in the Galapagos - but - with prices to match, estimating at $1,000 per person per day, all inclusive.