By: Nancy and Charles Nevil
Long ago and years away, when “home” was in Sonoma’s sleepy village of Glen Ellen and “office” was in L.A., the lengthy commute between the big city and the wine country was almost a weekly occurrence. The trip on Highway 5 seemed routine and it flew by with the help of a few books on tape or endless business phone calls. The black ribbon through California’s rich soil was always interesting as the landscape exploded with fields of cotton, fruits, vegetables and groves of almond trees.
Life changed, we moved to the desert, no more cold northern winters, no more flooded roads, no more half hour drives to the market for shopping and no more 500 mile commutes. As inconvenient as many things were living in the wine country, when we left, we missed it. But, you really can’t go home again, for home is where you ARE, not where you WERE.
On a recent driving trip, miles raced by as we headed north, and finally, that one sign we always liked to see --- San Francisco, was only 99 miles away. That meant we would be back in the land of vines and roses in less than 2 hours. The sun seemed brighter, the scenery more beautiful, and before we knew it, we were driving through rolling hills covered with vines hanging low with beautiful grapes ready to be harvested.
First stop was Santa Rosa. We visited with old and close friends, got caught up on what was happening in Sonoma and had a lovely dinner at a local restaurant called Stark’s with great food and lively ambiance. You will find some first class food in Santa Rosa and totally fabulous restaurants in Healdsburg, just a few miles north.
The next day, it was off to San Francisco for a visit to an elderly relative and then a short backtrack to Napa and a visit with dear friends at their “Italian Village” in Calistoga. The Bay Bridge had been closed for insertion of a new section (the Bridge is being rebuilt and made into an earthquake proof modern wonder) but we learned just before our Napa journey that it was open once again, making our trip to Napa easier and faster.
It is always interesting to contrast Napa and Sonoma. Sonoma is more rugged, the hills are often brown with stands of green lush Oak trees. It is a special Sonoma look. And Sonoma, because of the cool summer evenings, produces some of the most beautiful roses you will ever see. They grow almost like weeds. Wineries are very personal, tourist infrastructure is far less developed (but you can find wonderful boutique hotels in Sonoma Town and Healdsburg, along with incredible restaurants.) Napa is much more “civilized”, covered with beautifully manicured vineyards, many charming small towns and lots of touristic attractions. Wineries dot Highway 29 (be careful of weekends, Napa gets crowded and getting around can be difficult.) Sonoma and Napa are both beautiful, both make good wine (GREAT wine) and yes, there is competition between the two valleys. As Sonoma people, we used to say that our farmers grew grapes and in Napa, the farmers played golf.
Arriving in Napa County was delightful, where many familiar places dazzled our eyes. Calistoga is a typical old California small town, lovely and welcoming. St Helena has many shops and art galleries, Yountville has great restaurants and Napa City is a special work in progress which, when these difficult economic times are over, should be superb with tourist attractions, great food and a most welcoming attitude. We visited the Oxbow Public Market in Napa, had great fun and a terrific lunch. And of course, this is where one can board the Napa Wine Train and see vineyards from Napa to St. Helena. The wine country, Napa and Sonoma, is a fabulous and nearby place to visit. You’ll find welcoming places to stay and you’ll want to return over and over again.
Before leaving for Lake Tahoe, our final destination, we returned to Sonoma to stay overnight at MacArthur Place, our favorite divine little hotel in Sonoma. Through the years, it has become more and more beautiful and restful. Uniquely designed rooms are matched by sweet and caring service. You can relax and let your mind wander as you enjoy walking through sculpture gardens emblazoned with vibrant flowers. It is a one of a kind, truly memorable experience.
The drive from Sonoma to Tahoe is easy and most beautiful. Once you pick up Highway 80, you quickly get to Sacramento, switch to Highway 50 toward South Lake Tahoe, and start heading uphill. We like to stop in Placerville (AKA Hangtown,) once the capital of California on the way up to Tahoe. Placerville has shops and a terrific little fish restaurant called Powell’s. It is really a time warp right out of the 50’s, old fashioned and rustic. Who could resist their deshelled Cioppino?). By the way, we are not snow people and try to get to Tahoe before any of that white stuff hits the ground.
Back on the road, driving toward the sky, scenery is wonderful. Great forests, rugged mountains and at the top, shimmering in crystal blue, lies Lake Tahoe. We like staying in South Lake Tahoe near Heavenly Village, the dividing line between California and Nevada. We can walk across the border and gamble if the mood is upon us, or, if fresh air and good exercise is what we have in mind, on the California side, we can take the Gondola up to Heavenly and hike in some of the most beautiful wooded areas on clearly marked trails.
There is so much to do, so many wonderful sights to see, sensational places to eat, and shopping galore. If this bounty is not enough, Reno is just a little more than an hour away. There is also awesome beauty on the north shore of Lake Tahoe. Incline Village, Squaw Valley, and Emerald Bay display natural wonders that will astound you. It is a nature lover’s paradise!
We love trips to Northern California and know you will too.