The Avid Cruiser Luxury Cruise Report

Cruising Southeast Asia

Straddling the seat of a motorbike, my driver and I weave in and out of traffic as we make our way to Ho Chi Minh City’s central market. Traveling at a slow pace, the ride is nonetheless invigorating, with few traffic lights and apparently no traffic laws to impose order. Intersections are chaotic, with motorbikes, cars, busses and pedicabs all competing to make their way through. My driver skillfully brakes, accelerates and toots his horn to glide with astounding finesse through the clutter. “You go to market,” he says, looking over his shoulder at me. “I waiting for you.”

For $5, my driver was happy to spend three hours with me, chauffeuring me through Vietnam’s largest city on his motorbike and taking me to the colorful market, where he would wait outside as I browsed the stalls. Inside, knock-off brand name watches, perfumes and clothing, T-shirts, restaurants and butcher shops, where, no kidding, skinned cow tails were being sold as meat. I found the shopkeepers — and indeed the people of Ho Chi Minh City — to be friendly, hospitable and good-spirited. Their most accomplished English phrases: “Only one dollar,” “Special for you” and “Come take a look.”

The driver’s fee, his politeness and the city’s vibrancy underscore the appeal of a Southeast Asia cruise. The cost of transportation in port cities as well as food and merchandise is negligible. The people are friendly and welcoming. The cities are exotic, exhilarating and culturally enriching.

“The best thing about cruising the Far East is the value,” says Brad Ball, director of corporate communications for Silversea Cruises, which has been operating cruises in Asia for more than a decade. “The dollar goes very far. Whether you’re buying household decorative items or jewelry or clothing, it’s amazing how far your dollar will go when compared to the Euro on a Mediterranean cruise.”

The only downside is getting there. Those who travel from North America learn the hard way that we live on a big planet. From my home in Western North Carolina, halfway around the world to Bangkok, I spent more than 30 hours from the moment my flight’s wheels lifted off the ground to touchdown. I flew United Airlines from Asheville to Charlotte to San Francisco to Tokyo to Bangkok. Some of my fellow cruise passengers, I learned later, broke their flights in Tokyo for two or three nights (a good idea if you have the time). And for a journey this far, Business Class air is a necessity.

Cruising Southeast Asia is a good alternative for the winter-weary. With the seasons reversed, it’s summer in the Southern Hemisphere, when it’s winter in the Northern Hemisphere. And though travelers might opt for South America or Caribbean cruises during the Northern Hemisphere’s winter, Southeast Asia is a good alternative for those seeking something truly different. “The ports are amazing, and you really can have bragging rights to some of the places you’re going to visit,” Ball says. “It’s just an amazing experience, and cruising is the best way to see the region. If you had to fly between cities, it would be very difficult.”

Ships often overnight in key cities, such as Ho Chi Minh City. During my cruise this past February, many passengers dined ashore at good (and inexpensive) restaurants. Pre- and post-cruise stayovers are a must, adding hotel nights in gateway cities such as Bangkok or Singapore. I stayed one night at The Peninsula in Bangkok, an elegant hotel in the heart of the city, and another night at the Ritz-Carlton in Singapore.

Ho Chi Minh City turned out to be one of the better experiences of my lifetime of travel. I highly recommend it to anyone capable of making the trip. And if you have even a small sense of daring, hop on the back of a motor bike and pass through one of the world’s most fascinating cities as many of its citizens do — on two wheels.

Itinerary: My 10-night itinerary on Silver Whisper sailed from Bangkok to Singapore, with an overnight in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam; port calls in Brunei; Kuching and Malacca, Malaysia; and four days at sea.

The Sultan’s Palace
Our cruise on Silver Whisper also took us to oil-rich Brunei, where a sultan rules the small Islamic country on the island of Borneo. The sultan’s palace has 1,788 rooms, 297 bathrooms and is managed by Hyatt Corporation, according to my guide. Ths sultan’s garage houses 3,500 cars, including 500 Rolls Royces. Presumably the most dreaded phrase in the household is “Honey, I’ve lost the keys.”

Brunei is the only cruise destination I’ve ever visit where passengers with a high fever are not allowed off the ship. Nurses use an ear thermometer to measure temperatures. It’s quick, painless and even tickles a bit.

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From The Editor

Welcome to The Luxury Cruise Report by The Avid Cruiser, the online supplement to The Avid Cruiser magazine, published quarterly by Avid Travel Media.

The Avid Cruiser was developed for sophisticated "been there, done that" travelers who want to be the first to experience new cruise products and destinations.

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Bon Voyage,
Ralph Grizzle
Editor/The Avid Cruiser

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