Straddling the seat of a motorbike, my driver and I weave in and out
of traffic as we make our way to Ho Chi Minh City’s central market.
Traveling at a slow pace, the ride is nonetheless invigorating, with
few traffic lights and apparently no traffic laws to impose order.
Intersections are chaotic, with motorbikes, cars, busses and pedicabs
all competing to make their way through. My driver skillfully brakes,
accelerates and toots his horn to glide with astounding finesse through
the clutter. “You go to market,” he says, looking over his shoulder at
me. “I waiting for you.”
For $5, my driver was happy to spend three hours with me,
chauffeuring me through Vietnam’s largest city on his motorbike and
taking me to the colorful market, where he would wait outside as I
browsed the stalls. Inside, knock-off brand name watches, perfumes and
clothing, T-shirts, restaurants and butcher shops, where, no kidding,
skinned cow tails were being sold as meat. I found the shopkeepers —
and indeed the people of Ho Chi Minh City — to be friendly, hospitable
and good-spirited. Their most accomplished English phrases: “Only one
dollar,” “Special for you” and “Come take a look.”
The driver’s fee, his politeness and the city’s vibrancy underscore
the appeal of a Southeast Asia cruise. The cost of transportation in
port cities as well as food and merchandise is negligible. The people
are friendly and welcoming. The cities are exotic, exhilarating and
culturally enriching.
“The best thing about cruising the Far East is the value,” says Brad
Ball, director of corporate communications for Silversea Cruises, which
has been operating cruises in Asia for more than a decade. “The dollar
goes very far. Whether you’re buying household decorative items or
jewelry or clothing, it’s amazing how far your dollar will go when
compared to the Euro on a Mediterranean cruise.”
The only downside is getting there. Those who travel from North
America learn the hard way that we live on a big planet. From my home
in Western North Carolina, halfway around the world to Bangkok, I spent
more than 30 hours from the moment my flight’s wheels lifted off the
ground to touchdown. I flew United Airlines from Asheville to Charlotte
to San Francisco to Tokyo to Bangkok. Some of my fellow cruise
passengers, I learned later, broke their flights in Tokyo for two or
three nights (a good idea if you have the time). And for a journey this
far, Business Class air is a necessity.
Cruising Southeast Asia is a good alternative for the winter-weary.
With the seasons reversed, it’s summer in the Southern Hemisphere, when
it’s winter in the Northern Hemisphere. And though travelers might opt
for South America or Caribbean cruises during the Northern Hemisphere’s
winter, Southeast Asia is a good alternative for those seeking
something truly different. “The ports are amazing, and you really can
have bragging rights to some of the places you’re going to visit,” Ball
says. “It’s just an amazing experience, and cruising is the best way to
see the region. If you had to fly between cities, it would be very
difficult.”
Ships often overnight in key cities, such as Ho Chi Minh City.
During my cruise this past February, many passengers dined ashore at
good (and inexpensive) restaurants. Pre- and post-cruise stayovers are
a must, adding hotel nights in gateway cities such as Bangkok or
Singapore. I stayed one night at The Peninsula in Bangkok, an elegant
hotel in the heart of the city, and another night at the Ritz-Carlton
in Singapore.
Ho Chi Minh City turned out to be one of the better experiences of
my lifetime of travel. I highly recommend it to anyone capable of
making the trip. And if you have even a small sense of daring, hop on
the back of a motor bike and pass through one of the world’s most
fascinating cities as many of its citizens do — on two wheels.
Itinerary: My 10-night itinerary on Silver
Whisper sailed from Bangkok to Singapore, with an overnight in Ho Chi
Minh City, Vietnam; port calls in Brunei; Kuching and Malacca,
Malaysia; and four days at sea.
The Sultan’s Palace
Our cruise on Silver Whisper also took us to oil-rich Brunei, where a
sultan rules the small Islamic country on the island of Borneo. The
sultan’s palace has 1,788 rooms, 297 bathrooms and is managed by Hyatt
Corporation, according to my guide. Ths sultan’s garage houses 3,500
cars, including 500 Rolls Royces. Presumably the most dreaded phrase in
the household is “Honey, I’ve lost the keys.”
Brunei is the only cruise destination I’ve ever visit where
passengers with a high fever are not allowed off the ship. Nurses use
an ear thermometer to measure temperatures. It’s quick, painless and
even tickles a bit.